As the summer travel season is almost upon us, my wife Katie and I will be making our first extended trip of the year over the Memorial Day weekend. The inspiration for our upcoming trip is baseball and craft beer, as we are setting out to see every Minor League Baseball team that plays in Alabama while also visiting more of the state’s craft breweries.
Our schedule is built around attending MiLB games, but we will assuredly be visiting craft breweries and seeing other local sights. Here is our schedule…
In addition to seeing games at every Minor League ballpark in the state, Katie will get to attend the Rickwood Classic. We regularly attend Barons games at Regions Field in the Southside District, but she has never been to the annual game at Rickwood Field. So this year, we are making it happen.
In addition to the baseball games, we plan on visiting the following breweries…
For good measure, we’ll also be exploring some Civil Rights sights in Montgomery and Selma, too.
To see everything together, you can check out the Google Map I created that combines two of my favorite interests and some of the other sights we plan to visit during our trip.
You can follow along with our trip on the usual social media accounts. I’ll be posting regularly on Twitter (@StevenOnTheMove) and Instagram (@StevenOnTheMove). If you enjoy craft beer, you can follow my check-ins on Untappd (StevenOnTheMove) by sending me a friend request.
Someone who enrolls in law school and influenced by the philosophy of Buckminster Fuller is sure to create a unique brewery. That is without a doubt what people will find when they visit TrimTab Brewing Company in the Lakeview District of Birmingham.
While enrolled at the University of Alabama School of Law Harris Stewart spent his spare time homebrewing and researching hop varieties before pursuing his calling of brewing craft beer full-time in 2012. Stewart won a contest to re-purpose a lot in downtown from George Barber as “TrimTab Brewhouse & Hot Chicken Kitchen,” but ultimately realized the brewery operation would need more space. Stewart convinced Barber to lease him another piece of property on 5th Avenue South that had previously housed Barber’s motorcycle collection, which is now housed at the Barber Motorsports Museum.
It is here that my visit began.
Despite clear signage on the building, the entrance to the taproom, err tasting gallery, isn’t quite as clear. The majority of parking at the brewery is in front of the facility where visitors will see a mural that hearkens back to Birmingham during the 1950s.
Visitors who park underneath the mural may enter the brewery through its courtyard, where you can often find a food truck, or you can walk down the alley into the tasting gallery. My wife Katie and I opted to enter the brewery through the alleyway.
Walking down the alley leads you directly into the taproom, where on the weekends you may be fortunate enough to find Stewart spinning vinyl.
After walking into the tasting gallery, I met my point of contact. My wife Katie and I met with sales manager Jimmy Stewart, so I grabbed a flight of beer and we talked about the history of the brewery. Stewart’s inspiration for the brewery’s name come from Buckminster Fuller piece about social responsibility. He espoused that even on giant boats that there tiniest rudder could dramatically change the course of the entire vessel. The tiny rudder attached to the main rudder is called a trim tab, which is the piece that can redirect the entire ship. Fuller advocated that even the smallest act of social responsibility could change the direction of society. The idea of the “trim tab” is why the brewery doesn’t have a taproom, but a “tasting gallery” where local artists can sell their artwork without a fee.
However, we came to drink beer. So onto my flight.
TrimTab is widely available across Alabama, so I’ve had the majority of their flagship beers. So on this visit, I decided to take advantage of sampling beers that have primarily only been available in the tasting gallery or in limited release on draft. I ordered the Bankston Citrus Blonde, Cloud Hollows, Dry Hopped Blueberry, and Pillar to Post Rye Brown. Of the four, my favorite was by far Cloud Hollows. It is a really unique zero-IBU New England IPA. So it is juicy and fruity with wonderful orange notes, but technically no bitterness. If you prefer staples like an IPA or the brewery’s Paradise Now, which is a raspberry Berliner Weisse, you’ll find those on draft, too. Additionally, each Friday the brewery releases a new small-batch beer that is only available at the tasting gallery.
After finishing my flight, Jimmy introduced Katie and I to head brewer Marc Fishel, who took us on an impromptu tour of the production side of the brewery. The facility is like most similarly sized craft breweries, so we got to see the grain elevator, the mash tun, the fermenters, and canning line.
However, there are a few unique things visitors need to seek out that set the brewery apart from the rest of the scene. If you’re lucky, you may find that one fermenter has been dedicated to former Alabama politician Dixon Hall Lewis, who is known for being one of the heaviest members of Congress.
In many cases, dogs are synonymous with visiting a brewery and spending time in a taproom. However, TrimTab Brewing has its own “brewery dog” who wanders around the production side and occasionally makes her way into the tasting gallery.
The atmosphere in the tasting gallery is light, bright, and colorful. After all, it’s not just a taproom it’s an art gallery that serves its own beer.
If you prefer to sit outdoors, there is a courtyard that opens into the production side of the brewery.
Regardless of where you choose to enjoy your beer at TrimTab Brewing, you will enjoy a unique brew that differentiates itself. You may also be inspired to buy some art and be a small piece in major change.
After operating for two years in the Five Points South area of Birmingham, Good People Brewing Company relocated to its current location near Railroad Park. After moving into a former warehouse, the company former Auburn University graduates Jason Malone and Mike Sellers started has blossomed into one of the biggest craft breweries in Alabama. Despite its tremendous growth, Good People remains true to its roots as a brewery aiming to serve Alabama and neighboring states where you can find “good people” drinking great beer.
Upon arriving at the brewery, I met with sales team manager Stefano Daneri. We immediately dove into a tour of the production side of the brewery. I was fortunate to tour the facility on a Friday afternoon, but the brewery regularly runs tours on Saturdays at 1, 2, 3, and 4 p.m. Tours cost $15 per person and include a collectible glass and a pint of beer.
There is a LOT to see on the tour, so even if you’ve been on brewery tours before you are likely to see and/or learn something new here. However, some things remain the same like seeing a canning line, fermentation tanks, and freshly kegged beer.
Some of the unique things my wife Katie and I saw on the tour include the brewery’s quality-control lab.
A quality-control laboratory isn’t unique to Good People, but it is bar far the largest I have seen at a craft brewery. In particular, it was interesting to see the refrigerator, which holds a sample from each batch of beer brewed over the last three months. A sample is kept for testing in case there are problems with the beer after it has been packaged and distributed.
Although not unique, it was interesting to see the brewery’s original system that was used when they operated at Pickwick Plaza in Five Points South.
Seeing the original system, which is still used for small batches, provides a lot of perspective about how much things have changed for Good People Brewing Co. The quality of beer has not changed though, so it was with a view of the original system that we moved to the taproom to enjoy some fresh suds.
With a facility in a former warehouse, it is difficult to capture the entire taproom in one photo because something is automatically left out of the visitor’s eyesight.
As a geographer, the mural of Alabama and its counties caught my eye. I have visited the taproom multiple times, but somehow had never paid attention to the mural until this visit. Not only is it cool geographic artwork, but it illustrates the brewery’s commitment to its home state.
Speaking of cool artwork, the brewery has a VERY extensive merchandise offering that occupies a corner of the taproom.
However, we came for beer not to buy merchandise. Although there is plenty of cool merchandise available for purchase.
Good People Brewing is one of the largest (by volume) brewery’s in the state, so it is extremely easy to find their beers at restaurants, bars, and stores. So when constructing our flight, Katie and I focused on the variety of taproom-only beers available on the day we visited. We opted for the IPL (an India pale lager), HoDo Brown, Test Batch IPA, and Hazy Pale Wheat. I enjoyed all of them, but the HoDo Brown was by far my favorite. It had roasted notes and was quite smooth. If you prefer more “traditional” beer choices, don’t fret. The taproom carries the brewery’s mainstays and seasonal beers like their IPA, Bearded Lady, Muchacho, and others.
The taproom is usually quite crowded on the weekends, but there is plenty of outdoor space for visitors to utilize. Good People has a covered patio where they offer yoga in the evenings (although that was not happening when I visited), and there is a courtyard in front of the building, too.
Although we arrived too early to enjoy it, the brewery has a daily rotation of food trucks that park near the courtyard to serve visitors. The weekly list is usually posted on the brewery’s social media sites at the beginning of the week, and also each day.
Although people can easily find beer from Good People across Alabama and the region (as the brewery recently started distribution in Georgia and Tennessee), it is more than worthwhile to visit the taproom. It is an active and exciting atmosphere with plenty of seating options, a beer list that caters to beer drinkers seeking something familiar and those searching for something new, and a great view of the Birmingham skyline.
Within a year of brewing and distributing its beer, Ghost Train Brewing Company went from a startup brewing contracting its production to opening its own brewery and taproom in the Lakeview district of Birmingham. The husband-and-wife team of Taylor and Paige DeBoer began operations in 2015 brewing their beer at a facility in Mississippi before moving into the former home of Cahaba Brewing Company off 3rd Avenue South in Lakeview in 2016. The brewery sits in the shadow of U.S. 280 as it heads out to the Birmingham suburbs, which is where my visit began.
The brewery’s space is quite compact, but despite its size there is a lot inside the building. I visited on a Friday evening, so there was a band performing and it seemed as though every seat in the taproom was filled.
The bar sits in the back of the taproom, so my wife Katie and I navigated our way through the crowd to find a pair of seats at the bar to order some beers. We have drank many of Ghost Train’s beers because they are widely available in our area, but there were a few on draft that we had never tried before. So we ordered a flight to split that included all of these beers.
We ordered the Shamrock Kiwi Wheatgrass Sour, Train Wreck Pale Ale, Judge Juicy (a New England IPA), and Craft Lager. All were very well done, but my favorite was the Shamrock Kiwi Wheatgrass Sour. It had a good pucker with noticeable kiwi flavors. Craft Lager was my other favorite because it was tasty unto itself, but just a bit better with the lime squeezed into it.
After finishing our flight, Katie and I explored the brewery a bit so I could capture the rest of the landscape.
Like many brewery taprooms, the equipment is surrounded by seating. So it was difficult navigating the crowd to take pictures of the canning line and fermenters. The most interesting space I found was the game room in the back.
A collection of pinball machines accompany a pool table and Foosball table to offer visitors additional entertainment options. The game room was noticeable quieter than the taproom with the band performing, and provided a nice respite from the crowd.
Birmingham’s history as a stop for seven railway companies led the DeBoers to draw from the city’s former Birmingham Terminal Station, which was the city’s main train station until the 1950s, to incorporate a railroad theme into the name of the brewery and ultimately a beer named after the station. A ghost train is a phantom locomotive that grew in American folklore has etched into popular culture in a variety of ways. Visitors will notice the railroad theme in the brewery’s logo.
The taproom seemed like a busy train station the night I visited with tons of people coming and going. Visitors may not find the namesake Terminal Station Brown on draft at Ghost Train Brewing, but are sure to find a unique collection of beers to enjoy.
A positive sign of the growth of craft beer in any place is breweries growing and moving to new, larger spaces. After four years operating at a location off 3rd Avenue South in the Lakeview district, Cahaba Brewing Company moved to a former industrial site in the Avondale neighborhood. The brewery opened the new taproom on Jan. 19, 2016 in an expansive 51,000-square-foot building that used to be part of the Continental Gin. It isn’t always easy to find the brewery when driving north on 5th Avenue South, even though a sign points visitors in the right direction.
The brewery draws its name from the longest free-flowing river in Alabama, the Cahaba, which has its headwaters near Birmingham. So building on an nature-oriented concept, we Jump In to explore the expansive space that houses the brewery.
Immediately after entering the brewery visitors have options for where to explore. Turning right leads people to the primary seating area of the taproom with the bar and a view into the production side of the facility. Turning left takes visitors to a lounge area and a bank of pinball machines sure to entertain kids of all ages.
The ability to have a dimly-lit lounge and arcade space in addition to a traditional bar and taproom illustrates the size of the building. So turning my attention to the taproom, I captured a few photos before meeting with sales representative extraordinaire Randy Bressner and production manager Jared Subock.
It was at a high-top table that my wife Katie and I shared a couple of flights to sample all of the beers currently on draft at the brewery.
The flights were created to accentuate similarity in styles. One flight consisted solely of India pale ales while the other flight focused on maltier beers. The malty flight had Bohemian Pilsner, American Blonde, Oktoberfest, and Irish Stout. The IPA flight had Pale Ale, White IPA, Oka Uba IPA, and Oak-Aged Oka Uba. With the move to its current location, Cahaba went from using a 3.5-barrel brewhouse to a 30-barrel brewhouse, so I have sampled many of their beers. Of the eight I tried during this visit, my favorites were the Irish Stout and the Pale Ale. The Irish stout is dry and reminiscent of Guinness while the Pale Ale was piney and hoppy like a classic American pale ale. The American Blonde is the brewery’s benchmark beer, but according to Subock it was an accidental discovery. It was originally brewed for Cullman’s Oktoberfest in 2011, but is not truly a lager and instead is Helles-like brew. It has been the brewery’s most popular beer, and is a great introductory beer for people who have not tried craft beers before.
As a geographer, my favorite thing about trying a flight of beer was the flight board. It was cool to see the brewery accentuate its location in the state of Alabama by using flight boards shaped like the state, including the unique tail of the Tennessee River that forms the state’s boundary with Mississippi. In fact, I liked it so much that I bought a flight board and set of glasses for myself.
After finishing our beer, Jared took us on a tour of the facility. We started with the event space immediately next to the taproom, which used to house the brewery’s barrel program and other equipment. The barrels and equipment were relocated because too many people interfered with the barrel-aging process by removing plugs. So after passing quickly through the event space we came into the production side of the brewery.
When Cahaba moved to its current location in late 2015, the brewery kept its original brewhouse and now uses it for small batches.
Near the pilot system is where the brewery now stores its barrel far away from meddling guests.
Although the taproom has a cutout that allows visitors to see the production facility, it is quite awe-inspiring to be on the other side of the glass and see just how LARGE the facility really is. Cahaba now has three 60-barrel fermenters, three 120-barrel fermenters, one 60-barrel brite tank, and one 120-barrel brite tank. However, there is still plenty of room for future expansion.
Speaking of expansion, I got to see one of the latest additions to the production side of the facility…
the canning line.
It does not take up a significant amount of space, but is critical because it reduces costs for the brewery. Previously Cahaba has been canning its beer through a mobile-canning company that came to the brewery at scheduled appointments, which meant that production had to be carefully kept on time or else the company would miss its opportunity to can its beer, and have to wait before the company would cycle back around.
Not far from the canning line are two pieces that made the move from the company’s former location on 3rd Avenue South.
The original cooler and the chalkboard beer list both made their way to the new facility. The cooler is still used, but the chalkboard is simply preserved to honor the hard work of the bartenders who had to write out the list each time it changed.
Past the production side is the brewery’s primary storage area, which really gives visitors an idea of how much space the brewery holds in its current location.
Among all the storage space there is another cold storage facility and the brewery’s grain elevator.
There is also some office space that the brewery leases out to other businesses.
The most unique thing that I got to see on the tour was the brewery’s lab.
While most brewery should have a laboratory to ensure the quality of their product, Cahaba’s is unique because of how Subock has acquired much of the equipment for it. Due to the brewery’s location in Birmingham and the top-rated UAB School of Medicine, Jared has purchased several pieces of equipment through the university’s surplus sales. Most visitors who tour the brewery won’t get to see the laboratory, but if you get an offer it is worthwhile checking out.
There is a LOT to like about Cahaba Brewing’s taproom and facility. It is a huge space with plenty of seating and several game options to entertain people whether it’s pinball or Skee-Ball. There is also a large stage for music performances. If visitors don’t want to be indoors there is a long, covered patio that stretches the length of the building that is a great space on days with nice weather. Although best known for its American Blonde, Cahaba offers a variety of beers sure to please any palate. Although removed from the hustle and bustle of the Avondale neighborhood that centers around Avondale Park, Cahaba regularly has food trucks on site serving appropriate pub grub. So Jump In, and enjoy a pint at the former Continental Gin building.
The list of “must-do” activities for visitors to New Orleans can be quite extensive depending on the length of your stay, your interests, where you’re staying in the city, and all litany of other factors. However, exploring the city’s cemeteries usually appears on most lists. Often hailed as “Cities of the Dead,” there are about a half-dozen well-known cemeteries throughout the city worth visiting. And there are a lot of ways to explore the cemeteries through walking tours. I opted to go on a tour with Two Chicks Walking Tours, which operates small-group tours throughout the city.
While I easily determined what tour company I wanted to use, it was more difficult deciding which tour to take. Two Chicks offer four different tours of cemeteries with two focused on Lafayette Cemetery #1 and two focused on St. Louis Cemetery #1. I opted the Dead Sexy Tour because it included St. Louis Cemetery #1 and Storyville, the city’s red-light district during the late-1800s and early-1900s.
THE MEETING SPOT
Instead of starting the tour at the cemetery, the tour meets at Backatown Coffee Parlour (301 Basin St.), which is half a block from the cemetery. The coffee shop is quite spacious with a variety of baked goods, so if you need to fuel up before the tour this is a great place to spend some time.
If visiting St. Louis Cemetery #1 is high on your must-do list, the only way you can visit the cemetery is with a license tour guide. Due to damage over the years, the New Orleans Archdiocese has restricted access to the cemetery since 2015.
Volunteers at the gate carefully check-in the entire group, so there is no opportunity to “sneak in” with another group if you have not paid to be part of a tour. In fact, as my group entered the cemetery there were about four people with wristbands from another tour group who attempted to enter the cemetery without their tour guide present, but were denied admission.
HISTORY, MYTHS, AND TOMBS
If you’re a history buff, you’ll love the tour because you learn not only about the tombs, graves, and the people buried in the cemetery but also about the development of New Orleans over time. My tour guide Karen took the group into the cemetery, and succinctly detailed the history of the architecture of the graves we would see.
So my tour started with learning about the typical step grave and the famous weeping angel.
The tour of St. Louis Cemetery #1 lasts about an hour, but can sometimes be longer because it is a popular destination and is being used by many tour groups. So there is not always a set route through the cemetery, but visitors are assured of seeing all the notable graves and tombs.
There are multiple tombs created by benevolent societies, but the Italian Benevolent Society Tomb is one of the most famous because of its appearance in the film “Easy Rider.” In the scene, Wyatt (played by Peter Fonda) suffered a bad trip from ingesting LSD, and climbs onto the statue and talks to it.
Another notable movie film is one constructed by Nicolas Cage.
Cage’s tomb is controversial for a variety of reasons. He purchased the plots to build his tomb in 2010, although he does not have familial ties to the city. Additionally, the pyramid shape does not blend in with the surrounding tombs.
The most famous grave is of voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, who also has two “faux Laveau” tombs in the cemetery.
There is a lot known and unknown about Marie Laveau, which makes her such a compelling figure in the city’s history. Laveau worked as a hair dresser, so typically people leave hair ties as a memento at her tomb. However, it is not confirmed whether her remains lay in the Glapion family tomb or not, which perpetuates the mythical nature of her life.
THE RED-LIGHT DISTRICT
In the 1890s, the area north of St. Louis Cemetery #1 developed into the city’s red-light district. It was established by municipal code to regulate prostitution and drugs. However, many of these buildings associated with the district known as Storyville were torn down in the 1930s to be replaced by public housing projects. Although Storyville was created to regulate prostitution, there were many famous brothels elsewhere in the city. So it was here that we delved into the unsavory history of New Orleans.
We learned about Norma Wallace, whose legacy has been preserved in the book The Last Madam. In 1964, Wallace sold her last brothel (located at 1026 Conti Street), which has been converted into apartments. The building was also home to E.J. Bellocq, who photographed the women of Storyville in the early-1900s.
The tour concludes in the French Quarter where visitors can experience a drink in another famed brothel, May Baily’s Place.
May Baily operated a bordello on the fringe of Storyville, and legend has it paid the mayor of New Orleans an untold sum of money to keep police officers from raiding her house. The mayor had not expected such a large sum, and issued Baily an operating license, which essentially made her brothel a legal business entity. The cottage has been relocated from its original location, and now sits next to the Dauphine Orleans Hotel and serves as the hotel’s bar.
Over the two-hour tour, I learned a lot about New Orleans history and got to hear some great stories about the city and its people. The physical demand was quite low because the tour proceeds at a very leisurely pace. However, it is New Orleans, so it can be hot and humid during spring and summer months, so visitors should bring water to stay hydrated during the tour.
There is a lot to like about the tour, but the emphasis on a small-group setting separates it from other tours. I saw a lot of tour groups wandering through St. Louis Cemetery #1 that had twenty or more people, and many guides had to wait before talking to the group about a grave or tomb. Sometimes people on the tour weren’t sure where to go because they had lost sight of the tour guide, too. With Two Chicks Walking Tours, I was always among the people on the tour and could see my tour guide the entire time. It was also great that Karen regularly asked the group if we had questions, which allowed us all to engage in the tour as active participants.
Disclosure: My tour fee was provided by Two Chicks Walking Tours. Be assured that all words and opinions contained here, are 100% my own.